Between the Sierra Nevada de Santa Marta to the west, and the hills of Perijá to the east, lies the alluvial valley of the Guatapurí River. And in the valley, Valledupar, a city of scorching sun, musicians, legends, and rum,  the birthplace of Colombia’s most authentic mestizo music genre: the vallenato.

This genre was consolidated in the doorways of city houses amid rocking chairs, liquor, musicians, and a troubadour who improvised ballads to the rhythm of an accordion. Later, it traveled beyond the borders of the department and the country.

Until a few years ago, the murmur of the accordions of the festival of the Vallenato Legend was heard in the month of April in the Plaza Alfonso López, so called as a tribute to a former President. Today the Festival takes place in a modern complex called the Parque de la Leyenda Vallenata.
 
The idiosyncrasy of the inhabitants of Valledupar is also reflected in cock fighting, a spectacle worth watching for the colors of the plumage of the birds and the bravura of the bettors.

It is notable that Valledupar wisely combined its past with modern architecture and the accelerated progress that turned it into the economic axis of the department in recent years.

The house where independence from the Spanish Crown was declared still stands, as well as the beautiful balcony where Simón Bolívar’s secretary lived and the immense hallway that was the living quarters of the first governor of the province over two centuries ago.

Similarly, the house of the Maestre Pavajeau family has preserved its beautiful colonial facade with many balconies. The church of La Concepción has a large number of religious images, among them the Virgen de los Dolores and Jesús de Nazareth.  In spite of renovations, its preserves its colonial heritage and was declared a national monument.

The inhabitants of Valledupar pay true tribute to history through its archaeological museum, located in the school of fine arts. The collection contains over 350 pieces that represent the Tairona, lower Magdalena, and upper Cesar pre-Columbian cultures.

Tribute is also paid through impressive monuments like Los Poporos, in recognition of the three Indian ethnic groups that continue to inhabit the Sierra Nevada: Arahuacos, Kogis, and Arzarios; the Obelisco, a 30-meter-high concrete structure designed by architect Carlos García as a homage to life; and a sculpture of Vallenato Folklore, inspired by the members of the typical trio: acordeonero, cajero and guacharaquero (accordion, drum, and guacharaca players). The guacharaca is a percussion instrument usually made out of the trunk of a small palm tree.

The Guatapurí river rushes down the Sierra Nevada through incredible rocks, reaching a dry tropical forest and forming crystal-clear pools, like the one in the Hurtado bathing spot, which attracts visitors by the thousands, and wide beaches like El Rincón. Pueblito Vallenato, a three-dimensional work by artist William Socarrás is found on the right margin of the river.

Another trip you should not miss is a visit to the Badillo River on the route leading to Patillal. Its waters also descend from the Sierra Nevada and, on reaching the village of La Mina, form several tunnels through white boulders, adding to the delight of visitors while they enjoy the scenery and practice sports.   

How to get there
By air, from Bogotá and most main cities. By land from Bogotá, you take the Carretera al Mar all the way to Bosconia, where you take the road to Valledupar at the fork.